Castles and manors in Skåne

Skåne, with a landscape and surrounding fish-rich waters much like Denmark, was a great place for building castles and strongholds. The area was once Denmark’s richest province, and wealthy Danish kings and nobility were in Skåne centuries before it became Swedish in 1658. This article explains what happened before 1658, when Skåne was Danish … except for a few shorter periods of time. 

• Slott, herresäten och kungsgårdar i Skåne
  Castles, manors and state properties in Skåne
  
  Since the 10th century Skåne was part of Denmark. In fact, Skåne has been Danish much longer than it has been Swedish. A reminder of Skåne’s Danish past is Skåne’s regional flag, which is red with a yellow cross. (Denmark’s is red with a white cross). Another similarity is that Denmark’s national flower is the same as Skåne’s regional flower, the prästkrage (oxe-eye daisy).
  Strife between Sweden and Denmark in the beginning of the 14th century destroyed Skåne. As the result of an uprising, the Swedish King Magnus Eriksson in 1332 took over the area – until Danish Valdermar Atterdag took it back 28 years later.
  With the Treaty of Roskilde in 1658, after King Karl Gustav X’s first Danish war, Skåne, Blekinge, Halland, the island of Bornholm and the province of Trondheim, Norway, became Swedish. But the peace did not last long. Later that year it was time for the second Danish war. With the Peace of Copenhagen in 1660 the Swedes had to return the island of Bornholm and the province of Trondheim to the Danes. But Swedes got the island of Ven in Öresund. A try from the Danes to reconquer Skåne during the “Skånska kriget” in 1675-1679 failed, and Skåne remained Swedish. Its landscape neighbors are Småland in the north, Halland in the northwest and Blekinge in the east. In 1997 its two provinces (län), Malmöhus län and Kristianstads län, were merged into the new “Skåne län.”
  
  Skåne's noble buildings
  For 10 years I lived in Sweden’s southernmost landscape of Skåne (Scania), in the city of Malmö. I was fascinated by all the castles, palaces and manors in this landscape and started visiting some of them. I went to libraries to find more information, and found more and more. This went on for several years. I ended up with information on 321 castles—some still standing, some in ruins and some with history only—all inhabited by kings, other nobles or bishops. The list details 53 existing castles from the period when Skåne belonged to Denmark, 138 existing manors, 19 state properties (formerly kungsgårdar), 18 ruins of old castles and 93 no longer existing, or just traces of old castles and manors.
  In 2015 I donated my research papers to Riksarkivet i Lund (the National Archives in Lund). Information can be found online under “Handlingar rörande Skånska slott och herrgårdar.”
  Why are there that many castles in Skåne? The Lonely Planet guide describes Skåne in these words: “Down here the light is softer, the foliage brighter and the shoreline is more dazzling and white.” Let’s do a quick what-you-need-to-know tour around Skåne to visit 21 of its many great castles, manors and castle ruins. Some of them are famous and well known, others are not. We’ll start in Malmö and continue counterclockwise to finish in Landskrona. The distances noted are as the crows fly, so going by car will be a somewhat longer way.
  
  Malmöhus Castle
  Malmöhus Castle, in the heart of Malmö, was built in 1434 by Erik of Pommern, who was the King of Denmark, Norway and Sweden. In the early 16th century, it was partially destroyed and a new citadel was built a few decades later by King Christian III. This became one of Denmark’s most important strongholds. In 1607 King Christian IV added an elegant part with Dutch Renaissance gables. In 1554 and for five years the castle had palmy days with lots of big parties hosted by crown prince Frederik, who became King Frederick II. At the time the crown prince resided here.
  Between 1828 and 1909 the castle served as a prison. The courtyard was used as a place for executions. The last one to be executed here was the so-called Löderup murderer Lars Nilsson, who was beheaded in 1901. In the 1930s the castle was restored, and in 1937 it became the home of Malmö Museum.
  
  Skanör Castle
  We’ll leave Malmö and go south to the Skanör/Falsterbo peninsula. Remains of the Skanör Castle are located next to St. Olof’s Church in Skanör. It consisted of larger and smaller buildings, surrounded by two moats. In 1311 armed forces of the Hansa captured and ruined the castle. It was rebuilt but destroyed again after a few years, this time by the Swedish army … and again rebuilt. Its last gasp came when the Falsterbohus Castle was built, later in the 14th century. It took over the Skanör Castle duties to keep law and order at the important Scania Market fish market. Then Skanör Castle was abandoned and left to decay. Today there only are moats and a hill to see.
  
  Falsterbohus Castle
  Toward the end of the 14th century the royal reeve (bailiff) in Skanör moved to Falsterbohus, built by King Erik Menved. It was larger than Skanör and better prepared to protect the Scania Market. In the end of the 15th century Falsterbohus had lost its importance and was abandoned. Today the remains are a square yard on a square islet, surrounded by a moat.
  
  Jordberga Castle
  About 22 miles to the east of the Skanör peninsula is the location of Jordberga Castle, which dates to the 14th century. In 1644 it was destroyed by fire but rebuilt. In the middle of the 19th century the owner C.A. von Nolcken had the main house rebuilt in a Gothic style, designed by Swedish architect C.G. Brunius. In 1908 Danish architect H.C.A. Glaesel gave it the Baroque look it has today. Jordberga Castle became a model farm and a meeting place for local farmers.
  It is now the location for cultural events and parties. Its great English-style park is open for visitors.
  The premises are extremely popular for weddings (but if you plan to wed here, there are no openings until 2023).
  In 1955 one of Ingmar Bergman’s great movies, “Smile of a Summer Night,” was filmed at Jordberga. It was Bergman’s funniest movie and has received many awards. Bo Widerberg’s film “Elvira Madigan” from 1967 was also filmed here.
  
  Dybäck Castle
  Just a couple miles from Jordberga is Dybäck Castle. It is a complex of several buildings whose oldest part was built in about 1490 by Danish knight Tage Henriksen Hollunger. Additions were constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries. It is Skåne’s southernmost still standing castle. Its facades, in Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance styles, are not much changed since the 17th century. The castle is privately owned and not open to the public.
  From Dybäck comes a spooky story: According to a legend “The ill-boding rabbit” has appeared here, twice, and when the rabbit shows a third time the castle will sink down into the ground. Last time the rabbit appeared was 100 years ago. Will it show again?
  
  Svaneholm Castle
  Straight north of Dybäck lies Svaneholm Castle on the shore of lake Svaneholmssjön. Its history goes back to the Middle Ages but the current fortified castle was built in the 1530s by the Danish knight Mourids Jepsen Sparre. Original bullet holes in the castle walls are still preserved, from when a monk was murdered here. It is said that you can still see a gray robed monk wandering in the castle. There are reports of other ghosts here as well: the 16th century King Frederik II as well as a few random ladies looking ethereal.
  One of Svaneholm’s famous owners was Rutger Macklean (1742-1816). He was the reformer of agriculture in Skåne. Today the castle is a museum and the premises include a restaurant. It has been the location for the recordings of several Swedish TV-programs.
  
  Glimmingehus
  If we go nearly as far east as possible into the landscape of Österlen, near the town of Simrishamn, we’ll reach Glimmingehus, the best preserved Middle Age castle in Scandinavia. It was built in 1499-1506 by Danish knight Jens Holger Ulfstand and architect Adam van Düren (who also worked with Lund Cathedral). The castle is thought to have been used for residential purposes for only a few generations before it was transformed into a storage facility for grain.
  Many defensive arrangements were included in the castle, such as false doors, dead-end corridors, parapets, “murder-holes” for pouring hot tar over intruders, and other deadly traps.
  Extensive restorations were carried out between 1935 and 1938, and expensive objects such as Venetian glass and Spanish ceramic were discovered.
  Glimmingehus is haunted by multiple ghosts. You are welcome to search for them! And in the summers there is an event called “Bizarre stories and terrifying tales. Onsite is a museum, a restaurant, a shop and coffee house. It happens that ancient tournaments are arranged on the premises.
  
  Gärsnäs Castle
  In the midst of Österlen, less than three miles from Glimmingehus, is the Gärsnäs Castle, dating back to the 14th century. The current castle, looking like it’s from a fairytale, was built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Many nobilities lived here and kings and famous people came to stay and party – such as Sweden’s King Karl XII and Denmark’s King Frederik (although not at the same time). Carl von Linné stayed here for a period of time.
  Gärsnäs is the home to a ghostly lord who haunts the castle and it grounds. The ghost is said to be a former owner, Falk Lykke (1583-1650), who was known for his stubbornness and hidden treasures. The current owner, Mikael Krets, sometimes finds locked doors suddenly wide open. Also reported is a covered carriage with four black horses on Christmas Eve driving toward the castle. And visitors have seen a pock-marked man with long hair and lace shirt stepping into their room.
  In case you are interested, Gärsnäs is for sale! You just need to cough up 2.5 million U.S. dollars.
  
  Kronovall Castle
  Further north of Österlen stands Kronovall Castle which has been known since the 17th century when the Danish counselor Anders Sinclair was the owner. This castle was burned by the “snapphanarna,” the Scanian guerilla who fought on the Danish side after Skåne became Swedish. Actually not many people in Skåne were happy about becoming Swedish. They wanted to remain Danish.
  Kronovall was rebuilt in 1740 and again in 1896, altered and enlarged by the famous Swedish architect Isak Gustaf Clason who gave it the character of a French Baroque palace.
  Today the castle is a “wine palace.” In its basement are thousands of bottles of wine, and a wine festival is held every year. In the building is a hotel, a restaurant, a wine café and conference rooms.
  The place is very popular for weddings.
  Any ghosts here? You bet! A Miss von Essen, who lived here in the 18th century, drowned in a nearby pond on the way to her lover. Nowadays she has been seen floating over the pond. Also, many visitors have reported mystical shadows and voices in the castle’s long hall.
  
  Åhus Castle
  The town of Åhus, southeast of the city of Kristianstad at the shore of the Baltic Sea, dates to 1250. Today it is the center of Absolut Vodka, producing 650,000 bottles of vodka per day, using 20 percent of all wheat grown in Skåne. And here are the ruins of the Åhus (Aosehus) Castle. They were excavated in the 20th century and additional investigations were made in 2010. It is said to have been built by Archbishop Eskil (1137-1177).
  The castle had been one of Skåne’s most important. It is believed it was built in the middle of the 11th century and was the oldest castle built by stone in Scandinavia. Åhus was owned by the archbishops in Lund until it went over to royal power in 1536. During the Middle Ages the castle underwent many changes. The ruins can be found on the north side of the Helge River. Here, in 1316 archbishop Magnus Nielsen fell from the drawbridge to his death.
  
  Trolle-Ljungby Castle
  A few miles north of Åhus stands the great castle of Trolle-Ljungby. It is of medieval origin and was owned by the Danish family Bille during the 14th and 15th centuries. Large reconstruction works were carried out after 1621. It came into the family Trolle Wachtmeister’s possession in 1850.
  There is a story from the 16th century in which people thought trolls congregated under a big boulder on the estate, so the owner, Sissela Ulfstand sent a man to investigate. He found the trolls sitting there, drinking. They gave him a horn filled with booze and a flute. But he refused the drink and poured it out, then ran away with the horn and flute. The trolls got angry and demanded to have the items returned. Sissela denied their wishes, so the trolls put a curse on her and the castle, saying the castle would burn down three times. Actually, the castle did burn down during her life; that was number one….
  There are ghosts in the castle. Several times since 1958 the countess Alice Trolle Wachtmeister saw a woman dressed like a nun or an old widow from long ago. When talking to her she disappeared. From an old painting she found that the woman was Ulrika Sparre, a widow and owner of the castle in the end of the 18th century. Trolle-Ljungby is not open to the public.
  
  Ivöhus Castle
  From Trolle-Ljungby let’s move north to the lake Ivösjön. There on an islet are the ruins of Ivöhus, a castle from about 1220, built by the archbishop in Lund, Andreas Sunesen, but with possible history from even earlier in the 12th century. What is left today is the basement built of granite walls, one meter thick, called Biskopskällaren (the Bishop’s cellar). The bishop lived isolated in the house after he retreated from his office. He thought he had been stricken by leprosy. However, recent investigations of the embalmed body found that it was most likely not leprosy, but a form of gout.
  
  Losborg Fortress
  At the northernmost tip of Skåne, north of Osby, on the border between Skåne and Småland was an old fortress, called Losborg. There the Danes defended themselves against the mean Swedes. However, between 1332 and 1360, Swedish King Magnus Eriksson ruled over Skåne. In 1360 the Danish king Valdemar Atterdag took it back. Remaining today is a hill and a moat. It is called “Sigfridskullen” after a king Sigfrid. The land belonged to the Archdiocese in Lund. Archeologists investigated the site in 1986 and they found that the defense structure was built of timber, possibly in the 14th century and destroyed by a fire.
  
  Hovdala Castle
  Twenty-eight miles to the south stands the Hovdala Castle, south of Hässleholm. It was originally constructed in at least the early 12th century but the buildings we see today are from the 16th century. They were surrounded by a moat, that today is dried out.
  A powerful gate tower, from the year 1600, has withstood the two battles that Hovdala was engaged in – in 1612 when the Swedes attacked, and in 1675-79 at the Skånska kriget, when the Danes tried to retake Skåne. But a counter-offensive by Sweden’s King Karl XI stopped the Danes. From 1944 the land of the estate was used as a military field, operated by armor, artillery and army service troops.
  Today Hovdala is owned by the City of Hässleholm and is partly a museum. For its “sensitive and intelligent” restoration works in the 1990s, Hovdala was rewarded a European Cultural Heritage Prize.
  
  Bosjökloster
  Bosjökloster is located a further eight miles south, on a peninsula at the lake Ringsjön in central Skåne. It was originally a convent, founded in the 12th century. The grounds consist of a courtyard, a church, terrasses, an herb garden and one 1000-year-old oak tree. Bosjökloster was one of three convents in Skåne. It was very rich, and in 1525 its property included 216 farms. Large reconstruction projects in the 19th century changed the building’s architecture. Two of Sweden’s well known architects were involved, first C.G. Brunius who took on the church in the 1850s, and 10 years later Helgo Zettervall reshaped the east and south wings.
  The year 1536 was the end of the convent and the Danish Crown took over the ownership. But the nuns were allowed to stay until 1560 after which the Ulfstand and Laxmand families became the owners. From 1908 the Bonde family took over, starting with count Philip Bonde, who created a model farm here.
  Today at the castle are art exhibitions, a restaurant and a museum. Concerts are regularly performed. And here you can become a huntsman getting yourself a Master of Forestry.
  
  Flyinge Kungsgård
  Flyinge Kungsgård, located northeast of Lund and four miles south of Bosjökloster, is one of the oldest stud farms and stallion depots in the world. With about 200 horses, it is also the largest organizer of equestrian sports in southern Sweden. In the 12th century the estate was owned by the archbishop in Lund. In the 16th century the estate was taken over by the Danish Crown and came into possession of Danish nobilities. Flyinge became the state stud-farm and kungsgård in 1661.
  Here you can get a collage education leading to jobs as stable manager or riding master, or in equestrian sports. At Flyinge is a carriage museum and a restaurant. Guided tours are available.
  
  Trolleholm
  Half a mile northwest of Eslöv you’ll find the castle Trolleholm, with towers and pinnacles. In the late Middle Ages it was a monastery. It was built in 1538 and was surrounded by moats. It burned in 1678 and rebuilt in the middle of the 18th century. The Trolle family has been the owners since 1680 and they gave Trolleholm its name in 1755. Trolleholm got its present shape during a restoration in the 1880s by Danish architect Ferdinand Meldahl. Today parts of the castle are rented out for conferences, and in 2005 and 2007 it was the location for the TV-recording of the popular program “Stjärnorna på slottet” (Stars at the Castle).
  There are several ghosts here. One of them (so the owners say) is count Carl Trolle-Bonde, who was the great-great grandfather of its present owner, whose name also is Carl Trolle-Bonde. He, the younger, has seen the ghost – as have several visitors – sitting in the library, reading. According to his valet, Mr. Hansson, the count said right before he died: “Hansson, you should know that if I’ll walk, I’ll do it in the library!”
  
  Vrams-Gunnarstorp’s Castle
  Ten miles east of Helsingborg is Vrams-Gunnarstorp’s Castle. It was built by Danish nobleman and admiral Jörgen Vind, in 1633-1644, as his hunting seat. The castle underwent a thorough restoration in 1850, when it got its Dutch Renaissance style, the so-called Christian V style, designed by Danish architect Gottfried Bindesböll. Carl von Linné was there and praised the garden’s boxwood hedges, which are still in the same place today.
  In 1941 Vrams-Gunnarstorp was the location for the filming of the Swedish movie “Lärarinna på vift” (Schoolmistress on the loose), and in 2011 the castle was again the site for filming, an Indian Bollywood horror movie “1920 Evil Returns.” On the premises is a large biogas plant for which Vrams-Gunnarstorp in 2009 received a European environmental prize. Every year at the castle, one of the biggest Christmas fairs in Sweden is arranged.
  
  Sofiero Palace
  Sofiero Palace is located in Helsingborg, with an astonishing view over Öresund and with amazing gardens. Prins Oscar (later King Oscar II) and his wife Sophie fell in love with this great location at Öresund, purchased land, and in 1865 they built this summer palace that Prince Oscar called Sofie-Ro. Ten years later the building went through a major renovation and addition, to become what it is today. Since 1973 Sofiero belongs to the City of Helsingborg and is no longer a royal palace. Now it is home for a restaurant, a café, art galleries and exhibitions. The gardens, where there are 5000 specimens of rhododendron, are worth a visit.
  
  Uraniborg Castle
  “The Castle of Urania” on the island of Ven in Öresund, was built around 1576 and established by Tycho Brahe, the famous astronomer who was born at Knutstorp castle in 1546. He was known for his accurate and comprehensive astronomical observations. For instance, he found that the moon circled the earth; though, like other astronomers at the time, thought the sun also circled the earth. At Uraniborg he invented many precision instruments that helped him carry out his studies at this enormous observatory, entirely financed by King Frederick of Denmark.
  In 1566 Brahe got into a duel. It was about who was the better mathematician. As the result he lost a big chunk of his nose. For the rest of his life he used a metal prosthetic to cover the disfigurement.
  In 1581 Brahe added an underground facility to the premises. He realized he had to keep his instruments sheltered from hard winds. He called this new building Stjärneborg and it consisted of six brick-built round crypts, lowered in a hill.
  Uraniborg was abandoned in 1597 after Brahe fell out of favor with King Frederick. Shortly After Brahe’s death in 1601 the buildings were destroyed. Excavation and reconstruction were done in the 1900s.
  
  Landskrona Citadel
  We’ll end this tour around some of Skåne’s great castles at the city of Landskrona, at the Landskrona Citadel. It was built by Danish King Christian III in 1549-59. It is a defensive fortification with four (!) moats. This citadel is one of Europe’s largest and best preserved. In 1658 it became the King of Sweden’s property and it was expanded. During the “Skånska kriget” in 1676-79 the citadel again, temporarily, was in Danish hands. But it was not until 1720, after the Great Nordic War and the peace between Denmark and Sweden, that Landskrona Citadel officially became part of Sweden, rather than a king’s conquest.
  In 1827 the citadel became a prison for convicts with life sentences and for vagrants. Later it was a woman’s prison, in use until 1940. Today the castle is a museum with tours. It can also be rented for private parties There is a café here and visitors are allowed to fish in the moats. Between the third and the fourth moat is Sweden’s oldest allotment garden. And yes, if you want to investigate, the place is haunted by ghosts.

• Skåne’s castles set to music
  “Skånska slott och herresäten” is the name of a song written for a Vaudeville show in 1929 in Malmö. The text was written by Bengt Hjelmqvist and Hjalmar Gullberg. It describes, in a humoristic tone, the life in the castles of Glimmingehus, Torup, Skabersjö, Trollenäs, Borgeby and Sofiero. The song was written to the melody of a well-known folksong, a melody that would have been entirely forgotten a long time ago, if it wasn’t for the Swedish tradition of writing schnapps-songs! A countless number of snapsvisor has been written to this melody, and people continue to do so. To all Swedes who like to sing snapsvisor, the melody “Skånska slott och herresäten” is quite familiar!
  
  The last verse of the song reads:
  Till lugnet och vilan från dammet och möget *
  från Stockholm till Skåne far hans kunglig höghet.
  Han längtar till lunden där sipporna gro,
  och drömmer om Sundet och Sofiero.
  
  (Translation)
  To the calm and rest from dust and dirt,
  from Stockholm to Skåne His Royal Highness goes
  He’s longing for the grove where the anemones grow
  and dreams of the Sound (Öresund) and Sofiero.

• * möget means “the dirt” in the Scania dialect, “på skånska.” Stockholm was at the time not a very clean place.
  
  Göran Rygert